Day Two - Footsore

Paris Christmas 2009
December 27th 2009 - January 3rd 2010

Day Two - Footsore

We managed to sleep in this morning to the blissful hour of 10:30! The bed in our little garret is fairly comfortable - a little soft for me but heaven for Jamie (my parents forced my brother and I to sleep on plywood for the early part of our lives, at least in my memory...thus my preference for a harder mattress). Dave (owner of the flat) called at 9am to arrange to meet tomorrow morning so that we could pay him (yes, the keys were left for us, we haven't paid anything other than a deposit).

As we have our priorities firmly in order, we first went on a mission looking for the Monoprix to stock up on wine, champagne, scotch, and some food if there was any room in our bags. It turned out not to be too far, maybe a 10 minute walk from the flat. There were a surprising number of gypsys and other assorted homeless people asking for money and selling magazines - the neighbourhood seems a bit down and out, I wouldn't have expected so many. We also dodged more little puppy landmines on the way there and back than I've seen in the entire rest of the time I've been in Paris - 5 previous trips combined! Don't know what it is about the 11th, but there is some poop out here.

The Monoprix was, as is expected, wonderful. Someone once mentioned that it's a budget french grocery store, but it certainly puts the British grocery stores I'm used to to shame (well...Tesco's and Sainsburys...it might rival Waitrose). We picked up supplies for the week and walked back to the flat, mentally preparing ourselves for the 101 stairs. Being on the sixth floor didn't seem like such a big deal when we booked the place, but after going up and down them a few times, it was becoming a bigger deal...I don't think my Dad could've handled it (he has a bad knee).

We unloaded groceries, had a quick bottle of water, and headed back out looking for a recommended restaurant for lunch. It was a bit of a farther walk than expected. We eventually found L'Estaminet up on Rue Oberkampf and sat down for our meal. The cafe is small and a little shabby looking - typical workingman's parisian cafe complete with jazz on the stereo and a zinc bar top. No printed menus, just blackboards around the place with today's selection. They had a reasonably priced set menu for €12.50 for an entree and a main. Jamie went for the lentil and escargot soup, I started with an assiette du cochonaille - both were MASSIVE. Jamie's soup was very tasty and my giant plate of mixed pork products was fantastic - two type of sausage, bacon, terrine and gerkins. We were both a little full by the time we'd finished all that, then they brought our mains. We both had the trio de grillades - three types of grilled meat and a giant serving of chips. After we'd gotten through the chicken breast, duck breast, and little steak, neither of us were sure we would be able to move.

Rather than walk back up the 101 stairs, we decided to see how far of a walk it would be to Opera. It's quite a ways as it turns out, although an interesting walk. The 11th is a vibrant little place - loads of kids and families, it seems like an area that people actually live in, rather than a tourist trap like the Latin Quarter, St Germain, or even the Marais. Maybe not as glossy and polished as those parts of town, but full of character, and a whole lot cheaper!

The area around Opera and the massive department stores Galleries Layfayette and Printemps were PACKED with people doing their post-Christmas shopping. After a brief stop in Printemps for me to use the bathroom (the flat has one of those electric bogs, I'm afraid to use it in case it explodes) - a bit expensive at €1 but worth it in the end.

We were feeling a bit parched at this point, so found a conveniently located cafe not too far from Printemps but far enough to be slightly away from the hellish crowds. We had an overpriced 50cl of not too bad wine and watched the shoppers do their thing. There are some very interestingly dressed people in Paris this time of year – it’s about 5 degrees Celcius, but you’d think we were above the Arctic Circle the way some people had kitted themselves up.

Post beverage, we walked to Madeleine to see the fancy-pants shops around it and possibly have a LaDuree macaroon – the queue was huge so we immediately gave up that plan. Instead, we kept walking down to Place de la Concorde and then through the Tuileries. By this time, our feet were starting to get a bit sore, so we braved the metro system and headed back in the direction of our flat.

We’d never actually been to Bastille, so we got off the metro and took a look around before walking back towards ours. I’m not sure what I was expecting of the Bastille area, but not what it turned out to be – seemed very quiet and sedate other than a fairly large group of kids on rollerblades and skateboards.

Even the walk back up to our neighbourhood was not what I was expecting – every other store seemed to be either a bathroom showroom or a store where one could buy a motorcycle helmet (if you’re in the market for either, Avenue Richard Lenoir at Bastille appears to have just about the best selection in the known universe). We stopped in a little U-Marche to pick up some nibbles for dinner and found our flat – the 101 stairs seemed a lot farther this evening after our epic walk than it did first thing this morning. I suspect we’ll both be a bit sore in the morning.

This evening’s plan includes some wine, maybe a beer, and our picnic dinner while we listen to our classic jazz on the computer. After dinner we may head back downstairs for a nightcap at one of the many cafes and bars, if we can handle the thought of having to come back up the stairs.